Better than a Lansky ?

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Hammock_man

Full Member
May 15, 2008
1,450
526
kent
I have a aliexpress lansky which does a very good job, very easy, but the stones are wearing. Have looked at this type of sharpener and like the idea you can get replacement stones so easy. Fixing the blade in place does mean you can get a very good edge in a very short time. Plus I like the fact that it can be held in place on a log in the field.
 
Jul 30, 2012
3,570
224
westmidlands
I do not know about the jig but the stones look similar in design to stines I've bought before (not saying they are the same, a stone is a stone until you use it). The ones I have are very hard and become blocked very quickly unless you keep them very very wet, especialy the white fine ones.
 

Hammock_man

Full Member
May 15, 2008
1,450
526
kent
I oiled mine as opposed to watered. got a good slurry without them becoming blocked but I do think there is going to be a wide range of quality depending where you get the stones from. I know many water stone fans will say you can not get a perfect edge with these but "penny for penny" and time taken I get a knife that will baton down to matchsticks in 15 mins, which is what I want. I then use shavings and birch bark to start rather than feather sticks.
More I think about the OP's model the more I think I will get one at the end of the month, if funds allow.
 
Jul 30, 2012
3,570
224
westmidlands
I oiled mine as opposed to watered. got a good slurry without them becoming blocked but I do think there is going to be a wide range of quality depending where you get the stones from. I know many water stone fans will say you can not get a perfect edge with these but "penny for penny" and time taken I get a knife that will baton down to matchsticks in 15 mins, which is what I want. I then use shavings and birch bark to start rather than feather sticks.
More I think about the OP's model the more I think I will get one at the end of the month, if funds allow.

Slurry is more for polishing I'd say.I have just tried (mine)with oil it is working better than dry or just dipped (mine donot holdany water at all). I did try using them under a running tap which worked.even the 180 gives a superb finish and nice and square on a chisel because they are hard. It explains thhe small size and the wierd plastic, I'd always had them down as Chinese things made from high speed wheel abrasive. They are not fast though.
 

Kepis

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 17, 2005
6,690
2,106
Sussex

Robbi

Full Member
Mar 1, 2009
10,228
1,028
northern ireland
Just spent a while comparing the two ( by pictures only unfortunately ) and the Ganzo one really does look a lot better made and the stones are much much thicker, I've pressed the yes button for free delivery ( 2 - 3 days ), it will be interesting to compare notes when they arrive and had a bit of use.

I'll be looking to set mine up screwed to a reasonably heavy flat chopping board to make it stable but moveable ( ish.....garage bench to kitchen worktop type moveable )

I love my spyderco sharp maker and all my knives are shaving sharp using it, I do however have a couple that need a lot of metal removed to recondition the edge so I'm hoping this will do the job.

Fingers crossed :)
 

Kepis

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 17, 2005
6,690
2,106
Sussex
Will let you know when mine has arrived Robbi, will be interesting to see the differences between the two.
 

vestlenning

Settler
Feb 12, 2015
717
76
Western Norway
How about making your own?

knife_sharpening_jig.jpg
 

Hammock_man

Full Member
May 15, 2008
1,450
526
kent
Where does one get the "holey" bit ,where the long horizontal moving rod meets the upright. I could live with a fixed angle to make the thing more simple but still need the sliding action. Oh Yes, by the way, COOL
 

KenThis

Full Member
Jun 14, 2016
825
121
Cardiff
I use a couple of waterstones free hand. I'm still just learning but have had some success practicing on my old damaged mora companions (carbon and stainless steel - carbon being much easier). I can usually get a reasonably sharp edge - sort of shave hairs on the back of my hand, but not what I would consider razor sharp. I haven't felt the need or confident enough to try with my more expensive knives yet - although I will inevitably need to sharpen them properly at some point I guess.
Some questions.
Does it really matter if my knives aren't completely razor sharp? I always clean and strop them them after use - and they will easily cut fingers if not careful so they're still very sharp. But does it make a difference to using the tools practically if they're not 100% razor sharp? I must admit I don't think my skills would be able to tell the difference yet, I'm not the most dextrous.
Is it possible to over strop? I know/have learned that sloppy technique can round the edge, but if your technique is good can you over strop? I ask because I have a terrible habit of stropping knives in the evening whilst relaxing as I find the repetition very calming, but I'm a little concerned I may be doing more harm than good?
What's a good test of suitable sharpness for a scandi ground classic bushcraft knife? I see people do the paper cutting test but that just seems to prove no burrs. I was told if a knife catches your nail it's keen enough but just want to check.
Cheers.
 

Broch

Life Member
Jan 18, 2009
7,984
7,761
Mid Wales
www.mont-hmg.co.uk
I confess to being a little confused by these devices :confused:. As they rotate about the pivot the angle on the blade will change - is this so small it doesn't matter? how do you use them and keep a straight cutting edge? At least in Vestlenning's home made one the arm is so long the angle change is reduced but the shorter the rod is the more inaccurate it will be. Am I missing something, have I totally misunderstood how they are used?
Cheers,
Broch
 

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